In recent years Breitling has been rapidly overhauling its major collections under the leadership of industry mogul CEO Georges Kern. From the newly revived ‘Première’ to the diver’s watch ‘Superocean/Superocean Heritage’, the retro chronograph ‘Top Time’, and the ‘Chronomat’ that stands for a multi-purpose sports watch, a successful lineup is created by exquisitely combining tradition and trend. have been built. Still, the reason I feel like I’m missing a single tooth is because the brand’s icon ‘Navitimer’ has been quiet. Of course, new models were added, such as the 1959 Re-Edition, the Valzue 7750 Variation, the Time Only version, and the women’s, but the classic Navitimer B01 Chronograph was not news. The silence was not very long. This year, the 70th anniversary of the birth of Navitimer, the long-awaited eldest son has finally returned with new wings.
At first glance, the next-generation Navitimer B01 Chronograph may seem like something has changed other than the addition of a few more dial colors, but a closer look reveals a lot has changed. It changed from the logo that took the center of the dial. The long-awaited wing logo has been revived. However, the design has changed slightly. The brand initial ‘B’ is gone, and the AOPA (Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association) logo used in the past on the Navitimer is back. This historic logo is also associated with the birth of the Navitimer.
In 1952, Willy Breitling, grandson of the brand’s founder Leon Breitling, invented a chronograph equipped with a rotating slide rule that allowed the pilot to calculate the necessary information (distance traveled, fuel consumption, rate of climb, etc.) We develop a wrist watch. Two years later, the watch was recognized as an official watch by AOPA, the world’s largest pilot club. To commemorate this, Breitling marked the model with the association’s wing logo. This is how Navitimer, well-known as a compound word of navigation and timer, was born. For reference, the new logo, like the 1959 re-edition, omits the letter ‘AOPA’ on the shield crest. This is to reduce confusion. Aficionados of the Navitimer will know its historical significance, but consumers who have seen it for the first time may be puzzled by the character.
The brand name and year of founding are located under the changed logo, and the chronometer phrase has disappeared. The product name has been moved below the center of the dial. Another noticeable change is the date window. At first glance, you may wonder if the date window is missing. The crab at the 4:30 position has been moved to the 12 counter at the 6 o’clock position. Depending on the model, the background of the date disc was even matched to the counter color so that it blended seamlessly with each other. Personally, I don’t think this is an exquisite number. This makes the dial symmetrical, and it also looks like a non-date version. The circular slide rule, which can be said to be the identity of the Navitimer, has the same scale configuration as before, but has been changed from a slightly inclined shape to a flat one. The hour/minute hands and appliqué bar indexes are not significantly different. Instead, the chronograph second hand has become cleaner as the ‘B’ logo decoration at the back has disappeared.
The case (water resistant to 30m) is familiar. From the distinctive bezels with serrated sides to the classic pushbuttons and chamfered rugs for a dimensional feel, tradition has been followed. The dial glass is more three-dimensional thanks to its slightly raised dome shape than before. The case material is divided into stainless steel and red gold, and the more popular 41mm version has been added while maintaining the existing 43mm and 46mm sizes. It is because of its size that many people rave about the next-generation Navitimer. The automatic in-house chronograph B01 is clearly visible through the all-line sapphire crystal caseback.
Caliber B01, which has been a reliable engine for Breitling since its debut in 2009, has now been recognized for its stability. Even other brands used the B01, so I’ve said it all. The specs are also reliable, such as a frequency of 28,800vph per hour and a 70-hour power reserve, which is ample for a chronograph. As a movement representing replica Breitling, it has been certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Institute (COSC), a mark of outstanding reliability. Thanks to the modern design of the column wheel and vertical clutch, the feel of the chronograph is also very impeccable. In terms of appearance, the rotor has changed compared to the previous one. The design has been changed from a closed form to a more suitable design for appreciation of the movement, such as an openwork treatment in the middle. Thanks to this, the column wheel, which governs the chronograph function, is no longer obscured by the rotor.
The crocodile leather strap has not changed, but the 7-strand metal bracelet composed of oblique links is different from the previous one in surface treatment. Unlike the previous generation, which had the entire gloss treatment, in line with the current trend, brushed and polished processing were alternately applied to create a three-dimensional effect. I can’t help but mention Clasp. It has changed from a folding type that opens only on one side to a butterfly type that opens on both sides.
When George Kern put the final piece of the puzzle in the lineup reorganization he led with the next-generation Navitimer B01 chronograph, “The Navitimer is one of Breitling’s most representative models and the best watch on the collector’s wish list. We don’t easily use the term ‘icon’ for every collection.” ‘Navitimer’ means a true icon representing Breitling.
Qualified as a brand icon, the new Navitimer B01 Chronograph has a slightly different dial color depending on its size. Black and silver are standard for the entire line, and 46mm is green and silver, 43mm is copper (copper), mint green and ice blue, and 41mm is mint green and navy blue. For 46mm, the leather strap version is 11.92 million won, the bracelet version is 12.4 million won, the gold case/leather strap combination is 25.64 million won, 43mm is the leather strap version 11.78 million won, the bracelet version is 12.27 million won, and the gold case/gold bracelet combination is 49.9 million won, the 41mm leather strap version is 11.64 million won, and the gold case/leather strap combination is 24.26 million won.
Meanwhile, Breitling is celebrating the 70th anniversary of the Navitimer, with Giannis Antetokounmpo, the ‘Greek monster’ currently bombing NBA basketball, Misty Copeland, the principal dancer of the American Ballet Theatre, and a pioneer in the aviation industry. We’ve joined together pioneer and pioneer Bertrand Piccard into our new Navitimer squad. Each member will continue various activities with Breitling starting with the new campaign “NAVITIMER—FOR THE JOURNEY”.