Oris got off to a successful start earlier this year with the Big Crown Caliber 473 (>>link to related article) equipped with a new movement. If the first runner was a new work that hinted at another possibility of expansion of the next-generation engine, the next runner to take over the baton in Watches and Wonders 2023 is the character edition presented in collaboration with Disney. Based on the aviation watch ProPilot X, the popular character Kermit has been summoned to the world of watchmaking.
ProPilot X debuted in 2019. At the time, it had a ceremony with the manual in-house caliber 115 as part of the ‘Big Crown’, the root of the Oris pilot’s replica watches. The design is also a modern reinterpretation of the detailed design based on the big crown. The classic coin bezel has been replaced with a spiral, reminiscent of the turbine blades of a jet engine, and a titanium case and matching bracelet have been introduced. ProPilot X was just a single model back then. The product name was also ‘Big Crown ProPilot X’. About three years later, the ProPilot X entered a new phase with the arrival of the Big Crown ProPilot X Caliber 400. They formed a family and became independent from the Big Crown Collection. At this time, the name was also changed to the current ‘ProPilot X’, and the cornerstone as a single collection began to be laid in earnest.
ProPilot X is currently available in two lines, Caliber 115 and Caliber 400. The main focus is the caliber 400, which is pushed to the next generation. The new Kermit Edition is also introduced in the Caliber 400 line. Kermit is a frog character who has been loved around the world through American TV shows ‘The Muppet Show’ and ‘Sesame Street’. Perhaps because of its unique light green color, the nickname ‘Kermit’ has been attached to certain products that are presented in a similar color regardless of the field. The ProPilot X Commit Edition also has the same color on the dial. Instead, unlike other products, Kermit signed an official contract with Disney. It is for the same reason that ‘commit’ is proudly marked in the product name. The proof of collaboration can also be seen through the date display at 6 o’clock. The commit character replaces the number 1 on the date disk. Oris refers to the 1st of each month as ‘Commitment Day’ on its fake watches in this regard. Commit Day is said to contain the meaning of starting the month more pleasantly with commit.
The dial configuration is not much different from the existing one. The surface has a textured texture, and the logo, product name, and index are all printed on it. The index is a simple bar shape. Pilot watches often use large Arabic numeral indexes for readability, but the ProPilot X Caliber 400 seems to focus more on a clean design. The hands pointing to each index are in the form of a sword that narrows towards the end. The surface of the hour/minute hands is coated with Super-LumiNova luminous material that glows blue when darkness falls. The same goes for the index that separates the 5-minute units on the outside of the dial.
The titanium case is also not much different. The size is just right at 39mm in diameter. Waterproof specification is 100m. The case design emphasizes straight lines rather than curves and makes use of angles. The distinctive spiral bezel, reminiscent of the turbine blades of a jet engine, remains the same. The large crown derived from the Big Crown collection is also inspired by turbine blades. The entire surface is brushed to match the material characteristics of titanium and finished to a matte finish. The back of the case has a sapphire crystal glass inserted. Through the glass, you can see the automatic in-house Caliber 400 of Oris’ future.
This year, Caliber 400 is said to have solved the chronic problem of the minute hand bouncing when the crown was closed on some models. Weaknesses are complemented and the existing design and features are maintained. First, the wheels were redesigned to efficiently transmit power around the double barrel, thereby minimizing energy loss. According to Oris, while a typical movement retains around 70% of the energy from the mainspring during transmission, Caliber 400 retains 85%. The long power reserve of up to 5 days comes from that. Excellent antimagnetic properties are also essential. This is thanks to the fact that the main parts are made of non-ferrous metals. Among the more than 30 related parts, the key escape wheel and anchor are also made of silicone. Caliber 400 boasts outstanding accuracy based on it. Work tolerance is -3/+5 seconds. It is not certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Institute (COSC), but its standards exceed COSC (-4/+6 seconds).
The titanium bracelet is familiar. The angled end links designed to match the lugs still play a decisive role in enhancing the sense of unity between the case and bracelet. Both sides of the 3-link are made in a unique oblique parallelogram. Each link also draws a diagonal line, reminiscent of a turbine blade running through the ProPilot X. The distinctive clasp is inspired by airplane seat belt buckles. It opens simply by lifting the lift engraved on the surface. To close, simply press the same part firmly.
As a series equipped with Caliber 400, the ProPilot X Commit Edition can receive 10 years of international quality assurance service (2 years if not registered) by registering the product in the MyOris category on the Oris official website. The domestic price is 5.8 million won. It is 300,000 won more expensive than the regular ProPilot X Caliber 400.
